Welcome to Eircooled
Our Ethos is simple; We promote, maintain, and encourage the use of classic aircooled vehicles. We run the club in an open, inclusive, and democratic environment. We encourage all members to have an equal say and part to play in the club.
Register

3 engines to build, what size/spec to choose?

Dirty1

Club Member
Club Member
November 22, 2006
2,780
7
Wicked-low
www.dirtyhabits.ie
No I haven't won the lotto, but I'm trying to lay out a long term plan so I can gather the parts to build engines for some of my projects. I had started gathering parts but I was quickly told by Caddy that I'd bought components because they were cheap an not because they went together or compliment each other. End result was a hoard of parts that wouldnt result in much preformance. So I've off loaded some of them an kept what is required.

My current list is quite short but where I'm starting from.

Various secondhand 1600/1300 cases, engines, barrels.
Complete Mexican 40hp 1200 motor but with AS41 case.
Ex Alfa Webber 40's.
Reconditioned heads, 113 I think, machined for Formula VEE regs but taken too far. Unknown height.
Empi Inlet Manifolds up to 48mm, new
Engle 110 cam, New.

Other bits are more for dress up, Scat oil fillers an Scat Stainless rocker covers an Bugpack Alloy rocker covers.


What do I need? After buzzing about in the Oval for years I've come to realize the pro's of a good 1600 TP with simple carb set up, (that my Dads preached for years) so that the way forward for most VW's IMO but I do have 3 engines I would like to increase the capacity on.

1: The drag bug from last year.
The intention for this was always to end up as a track/sprint/hillclimb car or a historic rally car, probably a mix of everything. Having had the opportunity to run the Bugbitz motor I think it might actually be a bit too strong for this purpose, maybe I'm wrong, but as they say, power is nothing without control. Car setup is more important an I've seen some amazing things done with simple motor packages. Guesstimates put the drag motor between 120-130, given that, I guess 90-110 would be a good goal to start with. Powerwise I like torquey motors an the drag motor pulled flawlessly, from mid, to top but it had a real strong mid range but seemed to flatten off at the top. Again I'm only going on feel but that's probably what I'd need for a 4speed box. Something like Ross's motor could be the way to go. Reading on shoptalk a lot of rally guys go 1776 as they say they are more reliable than the 1914, but others say that as the cost difference is so little, that there's no point in the 1776 an do you really expect 100,000 from a race motor. Dave has suggested a 90mm pots with 76mm crank as another option. I really need to figure cost of parts vs machining.


2: Manx2 buggy motor.
I really need to start the build of this soon as I've had it so long. This is more of a show engine as a buggy is so light an my Dad keeps saying you wont need anymore power than a 1600. I know Rob Kilham wheelies his buugy every time at Santa Pod with a 1776. I did want something more than a 1600 as it reads better on paper but I had wanted to stay away from regular figure like 1641 an 1776. Pat had suggested stock everything with 76mm crank to give 1750ish but having seen the clearencing he's had to do it seems to be more labour intensive than he thought. So do I go back to a 1641 or stump fo case work an go 1776, an is 1914 too much. I'd like twin carbs as they are so exposed on a buggy but I do want it to look 70's an use similar stuff from that period.

3: The Bouncer. Dreaming now!
This would be a real long term goal. I've always like the number 2276 an if there was ever a car I'd like a silly motor I. It's my 62, would it make it less fun an less practical than the current 1641 (apparently). Anyway that's a few years down the line.


There you go, I need a plan, make a spec list, allocate my bits an pieces to each, figure out what the need an start saving/collecting. But I need suggestions an opinions....... I'm terrible at making decisions.
 

caddy

Club Member
Club Member
September 22, 2009
724
5
Armagh
bugbitz.com
2110cc 76x 94 is the most cost effective build. largest cc for least cost. can be mild with 110 cam like cf10's van or wild with 120 or bigger cam .

we have built this combo using stock 1300 heads and 100 plus bhp is easily achieved .
 

trev

*****istrator
Admin
November 11, 2007
13,982
1,699
Co. Laois
2110cc 76x 94 is the most cost effective build. largest cc for least cost. can be mild with 110 cam like cf10's van or wild with 120 or bigger cam .

we have built this combo using stock 1300 heads and 100 plus bhp is easily achieved .

just out of interest Dave, what carbs and exhaust are being run with this combo and giving 100BHP+?
 

Endfloat

Club Member
Club Member
October 25, 2006
8,449
39
Deansgrange
www.youtube.com
I'm getting 100hp out of my 1914 engine and am happy with its reliability and economy as it is. I suppose you could bump up the power by running higher compression, more extreme cam and better heads if reliability and economy aren't part of your goals. The specs of mine are: 69mm counterweighted crank, lightened flywheel, engle 110 cam, 94mm forged pistons, CB 044 heads, Weber 40IDF carbs, stock lift bolt up rockers, forged rods, so with that info you can se what could be changed to squeeze more power out of it. If you have any ideas if there's anything I could do without splitting the case or spending big money I'm all ears too!
 

Dirty1

Club Member
Club Member
November 22, 2006
2,780
7
Wicked-low
www.dirtyhabits.ie
That's another interesting combo Dave, there's so many it's hard to know what to do. I guess I may call you for prices on machining the cases for certain barrels an cranks an work it out from there. With the buggy motor perhaps Jon Whites 1641 kit would be the way to go as a 1776 adds machining costs.

Can you tell uif a motor is going to be revvy or torquey? Is it like a shorter stroke is revier or do the length of inlets/trumpets an exhaust also have an effect on it? Thinking aloud here, I should really ask the ole lad LOL? I'm more used to tuning 2strokes where those things make the difference.
 

Roadcow

Father Eircooled! , Eircooled Club Member
Club Member
November 2, 2006
6,333
17
California/Portrush
www.roadcow.com
I'm having a 76x 92 thick wall jug which machines in a 94mm bore built for a bus. Thick wall pistons and an easy to build stroker engine that will still spin up fast when needed. This engine is a low stress engine mild compression. Will be great for a bus and not going nuts with the heads to keep up low end port velocity.
 

caddy

Club Member
Club Member
September 22, 2009
724
5
Armagh
bugbitz.com
That's another interesting combo Dave, there's so many it's hard to know what to do. I guess I may call you for prices on machining the cases for certain barrels an cranks an work it out from there. With the buggy motor perhaps Jon Whites 1641 kit would be the way to go as a 1776 adds machining costs.

Can you tell uif a motor is going to be revvy or torquey? Is it like a shorter stroke is revier or do the length of inlets/trumpets an exhaust also have an effect on it? Thinking aloud here, I should really ask the ole lad LOL? I'm more used to tuning 2strokes where those things make the difference.

if your going to machine for 1776 cc with 90.5 barrels , same cost to machine for 1915cc 94mm barrels , same goes for head machining.
if you want to rev past 4.5k without shaking the engine apart then a counter-weight crank is required a standard stroke 69mm is the same price as 76mm , so 94 x 76 = 2110cc . the more capacity the more torque the engine will make.

you will find that the torque figures almost the same for engines of similar capacity .regardless of what heads /cam /carbs are used .
head /cam /carbs determine what rpm the torque will peak at . torque x RPM / 5250 = BHP


so a 1600cc engine that makes peak torque of 85ft/lbs at 3000rpm will make 48bhp
get that same engine to breath better and make peak torque at 4500 rpm you get 72bhp.

a 2110cc that makes peak torque of 120ft/lbs at 3000rpm will make 68bhp
 

Dirty1

Club Member
Club Member
November 22, 2006
2,780
7
Wicked-low
www.dirtyhabits.ie
That's brilliant Dave, much clearer now. Like I said there's so many combinations it's hard to figure out a direction. Like you told me before, choose one an gather the parts to suit.

The drag engine was a 2165, what went into it?
 

caddy

Club Member
Club Member
September 22, 2009
724
5
Armagh
bugbitz.com
That's brilliant Dave, much clearer now. Like I said there's so many combinations it's hard to figure out a direction. Like you told me before, choose one an gather the parts to suit.

The drag engine was a 2165, what went into it?

78mm stroke 94mm bore , engle 125 camshaft , cb044 heads 40mm inlet valve 35.5 exhaust, 48mm ida carbs , 1 5/8" merged header, compression set at 9.6 to 1.

we never had it on the dyno , but I estimate 135 ft/lbs torque @ 5000rpm = 128bhp.
 
Last edited:

Dirty1

Club Member
Club Member
November 22, 2006
2,780
7
Wicked-low
www.dirtyhabits.ie
Quick update, I was having a nose at the carbs the other day, they're actually 36IDF's from an Alfa with 32mm vents! That's a game chaanger as to where they're going, probably onto the buggy but I had started to veer towards a more period correct single double barrel carb for it. I also have a CSP linkage too.
 

Dirty1

Club Member
Club Member
November 22, 2006
2,780
7
Wicked-low
www.dirtyhabits.ie
I've just about got the cash gathered up for a VWspares 1641 kit. Still undecided whether to build the 1641 for the buggy (an use is in a beetle this year for the drag day) or go bigger. If I go 1915, on my current budget I'll have to stick to stock crank an heads etc. Otherwise the costs will only escalate.